January 26th, 2006


Sept 30, 1972

from an old journal
Paris - Sat, 30 Sept: Sunny again! Even on a clear day the blue sky is a bit gray. To the laundromat. A nice friendly lady attendant helps you - she explained in great detail how people don't empty their machines carefully and then the next user gets what is left in. [1]

St. Chapelle was as beautiful as last time. The sun pouring through the glass left patches of red and blue all over the tile floor. The downstairs is stately but beginning to wear a lot. Hopefully the admission fees will go towards restoration.

Lunch at a pizza place - several levels - mediocre pizza - not much filling - cheese abundant though. A good walk through LQ again. In a shop while looking at snuff boxes a guy tried to sell me dope! Good shops - out Harvard Square's HSq!

Dinner at Chaufferie - stone - pipe decor looking like slinkies - colored revolving lights - brochettes - boudin = blood sausage.. Les Deux Magots again amidst Paris traffic - street singers - passers by - a very European movie scene. Blasé girl - guy arguing while parking car at corner - she eating peanuts - they finally drove off. Some good jewelry crafts around - nice stone settings - ceramic glazes on brass/silver/gold. Morrocan / Tunisian store good too - fine inlaid, some earrings.

[1] must scan Gintell's Guide chapter 39 which deals with this very matter!

Oct 1, 1972

from an old journal
Paris - Sunday, Oct 1, 1972: Sunny again! Busy market at Buci - brochure passers, but mostly food buyers. A quiet walk by Les Halles to St. Eustache for a long organ / choral mass. Good colors through the stained glass windows. Dramatic organ stuff at end - long sermon in middle - lots of standing etc. but whole thing good - not as overwhelming as ND or Westminster Abbey. Wachet Auf and other Bach + something modern at end! Open markets also around St Eustache.

Parc des Buttes Chaumonte - 100 feet from top to bottom - little lake with cable ferry for .60f per trip - grotto like steps through rocks to top pavilion - concrete - wooden fences falling apart - merry-go-round for kids - grass which only < 5 yr kids can walk on. Swans, ducks - good flowers - strange photographers: a guy getting off boat and girl at top - Passed skating (ice) rink on way back to Metro.

Notre Dame full of people for free organ concert - what a place for organ concert!

Marcel Marceau at the Théatre de Champs Elysées. What a stately place - tip the usher - plush arm chairs for orchestra seats. And Marcel Marceau! A tender of kids, a waiter and customers in a café, a tango dancer, an unsuccessful suicide attempt, a bunch of abstract scenes, a magician / acrobat, a mask maker. It is incredible the way he can bend his body and its parts -- butterfly chaser, tribunal.

Midnight Sunday - clarinet + bongo jazz in Metro station.